velo, velo partout

I don't know which is scarier: trying to signup for a special iphone deal in french or negotiating the streets of Paris on a bike. On the other hand the former is just embarrassing. The latter could turn me into a flesh pancake. I suppose it is true in every monster city like New York or Paris: competing with cars for the road is a losing proposition. Paris, on the other hand is truly insane. Roads become one-way without any clear reason and then change to one-way the OTHER direction. The names change regularly (it's rare to find a street that doesn't change names within a few blocks). And then there are the motos. These lunatics (motorcycles, scooters) are truly the most dangerous thing on the streets. They dart in an out of traffic without any regard for the rules. It reminds me of driving in India: chaos...except only the moto drivers think they are in India. At least every few blocks a moto driver passes within inches of my handlebars. Lord help me should I happen to turn slightly at one of those moments.

I'm still trying to get all away to Versailles from our apartment. In St. Paul this would be a pretty easy ride (35 miles round trip) but in Paris it starts with a 45 minute nightmare getting out of town far enough to start actually riding. Gratefully on the way there today I found a group of guys who ride constantly (literally) around the Hippodrome (an equestrian field and stadium). It's like a perpetual criterium. There are ALWAYS guys riding the circuit. You can join the peloton and try and hang in there...or drop off when you've had enough. Kind of cool.

In spite of the hazards Paris has an incredible bike-loan program called Velib. It's almost free (5 euros for 7 days). You pick up a bike in one place and drop it off in another. There are literally hundreds of Velib stations around Paris so you are never far from a bike. The bikes are simple but very well maintained. It's hugely popular. And of course "there's an app for that" (an iPhone app that shows me the nearest Velib station).