Sunday, November 28, 2010

Le faux pas

It was a very unusual weekend for us. Celebrating an American holdiday in France was a little challenging. For us, Thanksgiving is all about family so being so far away was sort of hard. Alas, we had one evening that was really special with the local expat group. This group has really been a life-line for us. The group is filled with english speakers but it is also well-attended by many local french who enjoy improving their english. They are all very welcoming and we've already made some good friends.

We're very sensitive to any cultural faux-pas that we might commit here (curious that I have to use french to describe that nuance). It's difficult though to be aware of somethings. There are so many things we take for granted. For instance: teasing. Americans tease. A lot. Not in a mean way. We just like to give ourselves gentle ribbing. It's very much a way we show affection. Tonight was a great example. The folks who organized our Thanksgiving outing invited a gentleman from the local americsan consulate to say bonjour. He was very gracious and, I thought, the consumate American. He did the usual political niceities and then he requested that the audience give a friend of his (who was in the restaurant business) some feedback suggesting the locale of our dinner was far superieur to his establishment. It was, I felt, so American. Understand that I've had almost no social contact with Americans (other than e-mail) for 3 months so I'm probably hyper-sensitive. But the teasing made me feel transported.

Minutes later, I was chatting with a french friend at our table who had just received her after-dinner coffee. Unlike the rest of us who recieved a paper cup with our espresso (very unfrench) she recieved a ceramic cup. Well, I demanded jokingly of her "how come you deserve a real cup"? She looked at me guiltily. She did NOT understand that I was teasing. Perhaps it was my french. Humor is SO subtle. Or perhaps it is simply not the way one plays with a friend in France. So much to learn.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Sainte Victoire

This weekend we focused on starting our hiking adventures.  First order was going out to the local Decathalon store (read: monster sporting good store) to get some hiking boots for each of us.  I love the stuff that I can buy at these stores but I always end up feeling empty and have a strong desire to get out of there as fast as possible.  Rampant materialism is everywhere now.

Properly attired we headed up to Sainte Victoire for our first hike.  We had a wonderful little visit from the local moutons (see video).  Very fun.  Amazing that sheep ranching is still practiced this way.




This weekend we went to Barrage de Bimont.  This dam in Sainte Victoire controls the water supply to a large provencal water system.  It's also the beginning of lots of great hikes into Sainte Victoire.



In addition to great hikes we also discovered paragliders taking advantage of the local cliffs and attendant thermal up-drafts.  Pretty amazing to watch these folks.  They were literally aloft for hours.  The sport was invented in France and there are now 25,000 french who "faissent du parapente".

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Settling in

Life has really changed since our move to Aix. Aix is not as exciting as Paris but it is beginning to feel more like home. Our push to get involved has really payed off. We have lots of new french friends: mostly older friends (retirees) and younger friends (college students), not many between. This works for us. We’ve always had friends in a pretty broad age range.

Last weekend we headed down to Cassis for a nice Friday dinner and spent Satuday luxuriating in the beautiful cliffs and hills of St. Victoire. We’re intent on joining the local hiking scene. It is such a surprise to find out how popular hiking is here. Perfect for a couple of Boundary Waters fans: les voyaguers sont ici! This weekend we’re heading out for our first serious randonnée at St. Victoire.

Sunday found us in the pretty town of L’isle-sur-le-Sorgue walking through anitiquités and then on to Gordes. Gordes was amazing. The town is known for its bories: homes made entirely of stone, no mortar. What was most fantastic was that they still build their houses completely out of stone without mortar.

















We’re starting to get excited about the ski season. Apparently there is a bus we can catch at the center of Aix that will take us to the local peaks (we’re talking the Alps here) for x-country or downhill. We cannot wait!!!

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Toto, I have a feeling we're not in Paris anymore

Well we successfully moved to Aix-en-provence from Paris this week. None of the luggage nightmares arrived (we were moving 5 pieces...one very big: my bike). It was a great move. We chatted with a couple of teens on the TGV from Paris and even helped them with their English homework. On arriving in Aix we were greeted by the owners of our apartment: a wonderful woman and her brother who shepherded us and our luggage from the train station and then showed us around town and entertained us. So nice.

Aix is a bit of a shock. Almost anything would be shocking after Paris. Perhaps another grand city of the world would have been an easier transition than Aix. Aix is very small (140K, 40K of whom are students), very white, and very warm (we had a 70F day yesterday). The beautiful Massif Sainte Victoire (sort of a baby mountain range) is just east of Aix. Hiking is VERY popular here. Almost immediately we regret not having a car. Yes, you can get anywhere in Aix by public transport but we are going to quickly grow out of Aix. I've taken two bike rides to Sainte Victoire and I loved it. I can't wait to bring Jane...but I need a car to get her there.

We've both jumped into the social life here. We are determined to become part of Aix. Jane has joined the local expat group and has been invited to pick olives next week...that's right...pick olives. I have gone nuts on language exchange groups and have met with 2 new people with several more on the agenda this week.   We're looking for a yoga group and hopefully we can get some cooking instruction.  We are REALLY bad french cooks!


Sunday, October 31, 2010

Parisiennes

Two months amongst the Parisiennes has given me a much better appreciation of the inhabitants of this beautiful city.  One of the most surprising experiences in my time in Paris was how safe I felt...always.  In 2 months in Paris I never felt threatened or hassled.  Good luck getting that track record in New York or Chicago.

My theory is that another classic Parisienne characteristic helps: they don't talk to strangers.  The French need more personal space than Americans.  I don't mean physical space. They just seem to feel like they are violating your privacy (or having theirs invaded) if conversation is too casually introduced amongst strangers.   Perhaps this is another reason that American's perceive the Parisiennes as cold.  Introverts are often seen as arrogant or unfriendly for the same reason in the states.

So...the Parisiennes mind their own business.  Not the best place for finding new friends.  Gee minnesotans...sound familiar?  They are not uncaring however.  Far from it.  I was always amazed at how quickly the Parisiennes jumped in to help somebody who needed help on the street.   If I am going to be hurt in a foreign city...let it be this one.

The Parisiennes seem to have an odd love/hate relationship with the English language.  In Paris english is VERY cool.  That's right.  You heard correctly.  English is très chic.   A store is simply not cool if it doesn't have some english splashed on it's name.   English pop music is everywhere.  I almost never hear a french song here.  Starbucks is a huge success right now.  However, in spite of the cool, the parisiennes continue to have a strong preference for communicating in french.    Who can blame them?  French is simply a beautiful language.

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Au revoir Paris

Sigh....  This is our last weekend in Paris.  Looking forward to Aix but very sad to leave Paris.  What an amazing city.  Some photos: Paris Photos

Friday, October 22, 2010

Tout le monde à la mode

Ok...I admit.  I want the french to think I'm french.  I think it is a general goal of all "expats" to NOT be the guy who obviously does not  belong.  It's especially frustrating when the parisiennes seem to instantly know I am not french, as soon as I open my mouth.  Last night it happened on one word.  ONE WORD!  I said "merci" to a woman opening the door for me and she said "your welcome" (and no...she wasn't an anglophone).  Alas, if I insist on speaking french they always come around and start speaking french.  I guess I should appreciate their willingness to help me.

Of course, it doesn't end with the language.  One must "look" french as well.  When I arrived it meant I immediately shelved my tan jeans.  Personne (nobody) wears light colored pants here.  Your choices are black, grey, or...if you are really a trouble-maker...charcoal.  Actually, the one exception is blue jeans.  My most recent purchase was a scarf.  I have never worn a scarf in my life (well maybe once) but in Paris it is THE accessory.  So...I marched out to the store last night for my scarf.   Jane says I look tres français now.   Black pants, black coat, scarf.  J'y suis arrivé.

If you love fashion, of course, Paris is a wonderful place to be.  Especially, by the way, if you are male.  I have never seen so many shops for guys.  It's nice to have so many options.  But it is an especially great place to be if you love lingerie.  The french obsession with...well...obsession is not a stereotype.  They love to love.  And the women love to make sure the men want to love them.  You can't throw a stick in Paris without hitting a lingerie shop.  Gee...what a shame.