It would probably surprise many folks to hear that the French are avid hikers. The american view of the chain-smoking Parisien doesn't quite match the reality: the French are crazy for hiking. No wonder: the countryside in the south is simply an enormous field of "baby mountains".
Les Calanques (best translation would probably be "the fjords") are definitely one of the most beautiful sites. This park between Cassis and Marseilles is awesome. Jane and I come here regularly.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Friday, May 27, 2011
You can't come in. No, really. You CAN'T come in.
One of the things that is a little hard to get used to is the bars on windows. Yes, bars on windows. I don't mean just in the mean-streets of Paris (actually, I never saw what I would consider "mean-streets" in Paris…but I know they have mean-streets in the banlieues). I mean every little town. The first floor buildings almost all have bars. And if a window does not have bars it has wooden shutters that would keep out almost any voleur. I'm told this is for insurance reasons. You get a substantial discount. However, these aren't trivial bars. They are 1"sq. cast iron bars. It would take some serious demolition to get through them. In other words, they are expensive.
Doors are yet another amazing feature. Our door in Aix is almost 3 in. thick and has 3 distinct bolts that run through the jam when locked. NOBODY is getting through this door with a crowbar or kicking it down. And that is just the apartment door. The building door is even more intimidating and appears to have some sort of braces that one could use to really batten down if a foreign army is knocking on the door.
Why??? What is this need for all of the security? The per capita murder rate in France is 25% what it is in the U.S. and rape is one-third the U.S. rate (DSK not withstanding). Assault is 20% as likely. Perhaps there is less violent crime but more burglary and theft? Nope, one-third as many robberies. They do have a slightly higher auto-theft rate than the U.S. but then their cars (which they do NOT adore like Americans) are almost all on the street.
So what makes the french so security minded?
Friday, April 15, 2011
Tour de Provence
WARNING: Cycling-geek post...
Last week my brother and sister-in-law arrived from the states for our “Tour de Provence” bike adventure. My brother and I had seven days to hit the routes of Provence. It was awesome. It was sunny every day we rode and the temperatures were almost too hot. We were also blessed with a helpful (and sexy) support team (our wives).
I highly recommend all of these routes to any cyclist. They were all chosen for the beauty of the ride with an emphasis on roads without too much car traffic. I’ve included MapMyRide links to all of them and a few ideas for improvement on some.
Last week my brother and sister-in-law arrived from the states for our “Tour de Provence” bike adventure. My brother and I had seven days to hit the routes of Provence. It was awesome. It was sunny every day we rode and the temperatures were almost too hot. We were also blessed with a helpful (and sexy) support team (our wives).
I highly recommend all of these routes to any cyclist. They were all chosen for the beauty of the ride with an emphasis on roads without too much car traffic. I’ve included MapMyRide links to all of them and a few ideas for improvement on some.
Day 1: Aix-Venelles-Rogne-Le Puy Sainte Réparade – 80km
Our first day was intended to be gentle...my brother’s first day in France after arriving the night before with jet lag. This route was pretty with a few gentle climbs. We were a little surprised by the last leg: a 7km ascent followed by a great descent into the town of Le Puy Sainte Réparde.
Four category 5s and two category 4 climbs.
Day 2: Sault-Lourmarin – 53km
On day 2 we headed out to Mont Ventoux to try the beast while our legs were still fresh. Unfortunately the entire mountain was closed for a road rally (trying to imagine how cool it would be to race cars on Mont Ventoux). So...we had to pick a new route. It was absolutely beautiful. The beginning was a 30km descent (that’s right...a 30km descent) from Sault to Apt through absolutely amazing scenery. This was the best ride of my life. The rest of the ride was also very nice with a long ascent/descent into Lourmarin from Apt.
One category 3 and one category 4 climb.
Ideas:
- This ride could have been the end of a Mont Ventoux ride, i.e., take any route to the summit but then descend to Sault and finish in Apt.
- This ride could also be continued from Lourmarin to Aix via Rogne.
Day 3: Sainte Victoire loop – 58km
This ride has become my regular in Aix. Not too long but lots of good climbs. Beautiful. It’s easy to understand how Cezanne became obsessed with this mountain.
One category 3, two category 4 and one category 5 climbs.
Ideas: this route is also great in the other direction. In fact, it is definitely prettier in reverse because you really see Cesanne’s Ste. Victoire.
Day 4: Rest day- hiking visit to Les Calanques
We decided to take a day off to make sure our butts didn’t suffer too much (be grateful I’m not elaborating here). Les Calanques are incredible. However, my brother (who is training for an iron man) suggested that this wasn’t much of a “rest day” since he and my sister-in-law ran in the morning and hiked all afternoon in Les Calanques. Jeez...what a baby!
Day 5: Les Alpilles – 83km
Jane and I got to know this range very well during our stay in 2001. Now was our chance to return. Les Alpilles did not disappoint us. The route included a visit to Les Baux, a wonderful medievial city on the top of a peak. Do NOT take this ride on the weekend.
The winds on this day reached 35km with gusts of 65km. It was very scary at one point. We were sure the wind was going to blow us off the road.
An extra “cadeau” on this day: we rounded a corner during our last few km and encountered a shephard with his wooly charges. Very fun.
One category 4, three category 5 climbs.
Day 6: Mont Ventoux – 48km
What can you say about Mont Ventoux? Arguably the hardest climb in Le Tour de France (when it is on Le Tour). The trip down was incredible. The road surface from the summit to Bedoin is very good and the turns are even banked. Exhilirating to say the least.
One category 2, one category 1, and one “hors de category”
Day 7: SCRAPPED! – The joys of cycling. An equipment problem cancelled out last day. At least our butts were saved!
Total: 322km
There are many great routes in Provence. This place is really a cycling paradise. One of the routes that we didn't have time for looked particularly fun. It includes a visit to Gordes and Roussillon.
Louberon Loop - 91km
One category 3, two category 4 and seven category 5 climbs.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Yes sir, right away Mr. I Am Afraid
French pronunciation continues to be a challenge for me. One of the mistakes I believe we make teaching language is that we wait too long to teach the subtleties of pronunciation. That is, we wait until AFTER we have already picked up bad habits that are hard to break. This leads to many, sometimes funny misunderstandings.
When I was first beginning to speak French I would sometimes practice with a friend at work who was fluent. I remember mentioning "hair" on a couple of occasions when I would consistently say chevOH instead of chevOO. Of course I didn't just cut my horse, I cut my hair.
It goes both ways of course. My first French tutor was explaining to me one day in English that he felt he was different than most. "I am eunuch," he said. Wow, I thought, what a confession. I was surprised at how open he was. I realized later he was really trying to say "I am unique".
For me, one of the most careful pronunciations involves my last name. After a few weeks of trying to get the French to pronounce my name correctly I gave up and simply pronounced it in French. This had an unexpected side affect. If I don't pronounce the first syllable just right it sounds like "J'ai peur" (I am afraid). This is, of course, a freudian slip since in those situations when I HAVE to say my name in french I am usually speaking with somebody who is filling out a form and I am, indeed, nervous.
For a long time I was hoping that I could beat my accent. After all, I was the kid who was so good at doing impersonations. Surely I can lose the accent. A friend of mine here made me ask a more important question: why? Why do you want to lose your accent? Don't you find a foreign accent charming? Right you are! And thanks for letting me off the hook for good. :-)
When I was first beginning to speak French I would sometimes practice with a friend at work who was fluent. I remember mentioning "hair" on a couple of occasions when I would consistently say chevOH instead of chevOO. Of course I didn't just cut my horse, I cut my hair.
It goes both ways of course. My first French tutor was explaining to me one day in English that he felt he was different than most. "I am eunuch," he said. Wow, I thought, what a confession. I was surprised at how open he was. I realized later he was really trying to say "I am unique".
For me, one of the most careful pronunciations involves my last name. After a few weeks of trying to get the French to pronounce my name correctly I gave up and simply pronounced it in French. This had an unexpected side affect. If I don't pronounce the first syllable just right it sounds like "J'ai peur" (I am afraid). This is, of course, a freudian slip since in those situations when I HAVE to say my name in french I am usually speaking with somebody who is filling out a form and I am, indeed, nervous.
For a long time I was hoping that I could beat my accent. After all, I was the kid who was so good at doing impersonations. Surely I can lose the accent. A friend of mine here made me ask a more important question: why? Why do you want to lose your accent? Don't you find a foreign accent charming? Right you are! And thanks for letting me off the hook for good. :-)
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Je habite au paradis
What a wonderful weekend. Maybe it was the week of rainy weather or maybe it was just the events but this was really a fabulous few days. The weather was a perfect 17C (about 65F) with a sky so, so blue. After a fabulous 3 hour ride on Friday, yesterday began with coffee and chatting with some new friends on the Cours Mirabeau. We exited the cafe to a find a demonstration going on (a teachers' union…sound familiar Wisconsites?).
When we got back to our apartment there was a young woman across the street singing opera out her window ("across the street" is about 5 meters by the way). We then spent the afternoon climbing to the top of Sainte Victoire, the local mountain icon. It was about 4 hours and 2000 feet of ascent. Specatular.
More photos of our trip to the summit
Today was tutoring from a wonderful friend in the morning and then another great ride under the gaze of the mountain. The day finished watching a cycling race (a criterium) right through our pretty town.
Wow.
When we got back to our apartment there was a young woman across the street singing opera out her window ("across the street" is about 5 meters by the way). We then spent the afternoon climbing to the top of Sainte Victoire, the local mountain icon. It was about 4 hours and 2000 feet of ascent. Specatular.
More photos of our trip to the summit
Today was tutoring from a wonderful friend in the morning and then another great ride under the gaze of the mountain. The day finished watching a cycling race (a criterium) right through our pretty town.
Wow.
Friday, March 11, 2011
Rome
Ok...another diversion. We went to Rome this weekend for our 29th wedding anniversary (Jane and I met in the Rome train station 30 years ago). Rome was beautiful. The italians were er...ebullient? After 6 months of toning down our american noise level it was fun to be amongst the vivacious. The French are serious. The Italians are more relaxed.
Rome photos
Rome photos
Friday, March 4, 2011
Parlez-vous anglais?
Not surprisingly a good deal of my time in France is spent improving my French. Most days I get together with friends to do a "language exchange". The idea is that you and and another individual get together and speak each other's language. A typical meeting is a couple of hours with one hour in french and the other in English. I love these. It's a great way for me to get concentrated time with somebody who is in a similar place. My language partner understands that I WANT to be corrected and is usually very patient with my American accent. The conversations, of course, are whatever we want to chat about although they have a tendency to become Q&A on various cultural questions that each party is curious about. I cannot believe how much I have learned about the french way of life from these fun talks.
What surprised me about language exchanges was how poorly equipped I was. I don't mean my French. I mean my English. When I first started studying French it was quickly apparent to me that I had lost all consciousness of the English language. Yes, I speak English but do I understand anything about it? I had forgotten what an article was, much less had any concept of what the verb tenses were in English. I understood NOTHING about English. Thus, my concept of language got better rapidly when I started studying french. In fact, it was one of the things that I found interesting about language study (most of learning a language is simply a brute force battle to convince your brain that the foreign words are worthy to use memory space).
So...I can tell you when to use the plus que parfait and on good days understand the strange rules for the subjonctif. But English? That’s another matter. I remember my first exchange rather well. My friend almost immediately said he was struggling with “when to use any vs. some” in English. Ha I said, this will be easy! Finally I’m a master at something here! However, I was almost immediately stumped. Um...”would you like some peanuts”...um...“Would you like any peanuts”...What IS the rule? I realized I did not have a clue. I am not equipped to teach somebody English. I could probably teach French much better than I could teach English.
Humbled...again.
What surprised me about language exchanges was how poorly equipped I was. I don't mean my French. I mean my English. When I first started studying French it was quickly apparent to me that I had lost all consciousness of the English language. Yes, I speak English but do I understand anything about it? I had forgotten what an article was, much less had any concept of what the verb tenses were in English. I understood NOTHING about English. Thus, my concept of language got better rapidly when I started studying french. In fact, it was one of the things that I found interesting about language study (most of learning a language is simply a brute force battle to convince your brain that the foreign words are worthy to use memory space).
So...I can tell you when to use the plus que parfait and on good days understand the strange rules for the subjonctif. But English? That’s another matter. I remember my first exchange rather well. My friend almost immediately said he was struggling with “when to use any vs. some” in English. Ha I said, this will be easy! Finally I’m a master at something here! However, I was almost immediately stumped. Um...”would you like some peanuts”...um...“Would you like any peanuts”...What IS the rule? I realized I did not have a clue. I am not equipped to teach somebody English. I could probably teach French much better than I could teach English.
Humbled...again.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)